Trying to make open bottom dresses

[Nonsequitur]

1 hour ago, LadySmoks said:

You can see horizontal lines in the hair

Cylinder segments edges. 

1 hour ago, LadySmoks said:

But, if you merge vertices

Weld, yes. Merge?  Another thing I've never done. 

Like I've said - I never caught up... but , I do stumble around really good!

 

I really like the way your hair turned out too.  Me - I just wanted to see if I could do anything with hair. I've never looked at a hair object before so once I got the mesh - Pencil Wiped a mod to see what happens. Okay for dimensional referencing but, if I want it to look good - I'm going to need to pay attention to how it's put together - like you did.

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Although convention has been that Z axis is up/down (is in most CAD), MS uses Y as the up/down. Took a while to get use to. I putz around in Blender but only for minor vertice adjustments and some of the tools - mostly in 2.79

 

I've never worked with anything on Sharps. A Blender thing I guess. I've seen you two reference it but never looked at it or know exactly where, how, or what it is.

I've never looked at Balancer or know about it.

 

1 hour ago, LadySmoks said:

've done sheer stockings...

Another thing I've never looked at until recently. Looking at the shear JoshQ does I thought I'd give it a shot. It's a learning curve.

I've made lots of Shear/transparent clothing but never seen an object - that wasn't... no mesh. So went back to what I do for shear clothing over a body mesh. Make the multiplier as close to what I want as possible then wrap that over the body image. Move the Wrapped image back to the multiplier and cut using the original as a mask. Since most of the Alpha is set while Wrapping the image it's a little touchy getting the transparency levels right.  You get  to adjust levels +/- a little after in place.

 

The one I show above is a little too transparent and shiny. Still working on the sheerness Vs. Leg detail to get close to how JoshQ's hosiery displays. I can tweak a transparency over a mesh - that's over another mesh...  but havent found that sweet spot on this one yet. 

 

The advantage though is that whatever transparent color you perset on the multiplier itself and apply a color channel on that area - you get rich color for that transparency. The drawback is it will only work for grey color choices. Too light and it washes out - too dark and it all goes black - any color change has to be in the mid-tone range from the color channels slider, but will color nicely. The color palot behaves strangely but has some interesting effects since I think it is color-additive. You can test simply by altering the Color Mask and Multipliers. I haven't tried using the Stencils as a wrapped transparency yet... Hmmm.  It's all just playtime stuff! - like I said... SQUIRREL !!! what were we talking about...?

 

As for the rest of it - ????

I have no clue about projecting or copying UV's and such. I'm just a simple digital peasant farmer... who recently discovered digital agribusiness.

 

 

[Guest]

2 hours ago, Non-sequitur said:

Cylinder segments edges. 

I have no clue what that is! Just like you, I have never messed with hair... oh, I tried to, but never got as far as I did with that Harley hair (this time)... a lack of basic knowledge about what tools to use and how. AND... still learning too!!! And as I said, and you know, the size of that file was more than my laptop and Blender could handle. It either worked very slowly (death crawl) or crashed. TSRW had problems handling that mesh on my older laptop.

 

And thank you. ) It was my first ever success with hair. There are a few other hair meshes I might try to shorten in front, but not now. This was just one more of the many things I tried to do many times to do  in the past, but failed. But, as I learn more and more, I think... Hmmmm maybe I should try again and see if this new thing I learned will work??? ))))

 

Weld/ merge... seems to be dependent on which side of the line you're working on with Blender. Although, 2.67 called it "remove double vertices". On the mesh side, 2.8 has "merge" vertices and on the UV side, its "weld". I learned that if you merge vertices on the mesh side, they will be welded on export on the UV and give you that spider web on the UV map. BUT... you also need to merge the UV or manually "weld". I know you haven't really used 2.8, and I'm just learning it, but the simgeom tool by Smug Tomato has a button for "split UV", which splits the UV seams, but also splits the mesh vertices again. Has to be that way I guess... then you have to renumber vertices before export.

2 hours ago, Non-sequitur said:

I'm going to need to pay attention to how it's put together - like you did.

I wish I could say I made some thoughtful choice, but it was just me wanting to do something and trying every option I could think of until one worked! Kind of the way I do everything!!! ))) 

 

I learned x, y, z also depends on which side of the line you are on. On the UV side, there's only x (horizontal) and y (vertical). But in 3d view, well, you know.

 

I never did sharps before using 2.8. They work great for defining edges, but for some reason, 2.8 will add sharps or remove them, I think on import. It seams to be something the program thinks it sees and makes the change on its on, which is incredibly inconvenient. In object, its all or nothing. you can import/ export with no sharp edges, or every vertices will have a sharp! Again, something to work around.

 

For me the easiest way to do stockings is a simple erase, and see how it looks in game, go back and make adjustments if needed. But, as I said, things like the waist and leg bands, I trace out with the free select tool and copy it as solid to a new layer, then just use erase to make the item sheer, then merge down the waist and leg bands, or lace parts. I do the erasing over a layer with the pink colored skin texture.

 

I also learned recently (by accident) that you can adjust the opacity of the layer you're working on by sliding that on the right side tool panel on GIMP 2.10.

I'm on a different laptop from the one I did these on, so this is a bit crude, but you can see that for simple panties with no set pattern, this works well. And the lace ones I did were similar.

 

I think its only if you make the pattern in your multiplier, especially vertical lines as Josh did, that you need to worry about the level of detail because the vertical lines won't follow the mesh UV in certain places.

 

The only projecting I know of is that video I linked a page or two back showing how to overlay the multiplier onto the mesh in Blender. I use it a lot now. Its very helpful when aligning the UV and multiplier, especially on dresses where the top and bottom are split and making sure you don't have a seam caused by the multiplier alignment at the waist.

 

[Guest]

Oh... this is what I eventually want to make for my Harley...

Unfortunately, it doesn't quite look like this in game for me. I use the tights and gloves, but the dress distorts. Also unfortunately, because the UV was unwrapped, and the multiplier is everywhere I can't work with this mesh to "tweak" it. ((( The top I made using 3 EA meshes is the progression of my first serious attempt to make this. Although that mesh isn't THAT close, it was a good start for me at cutting out mesh parts and putting them together. And as with so much, I have learned so much since starting that project, and might be ready to go deeper. )))

 

But, I saw something shiny and will probably do that first!?AND continue to test the dresses I made with the pregnant morphs and the pregnant meshes readjusted in Blender as .obj.

 

One thing I won't be doing is making a new "psychopathic" trait for Harley. It would make her even MORE fun, but when I looked into custom traits for S3, I found that only 3 people have ever succeeded in cracking that code. And this little dress maker walked away!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[JoshQ]

10 hours ago, Non-sequitur said:

I've made lots of Shear/transparent clothing but never seen an object - that wasn't... no mesh.

Transparent clothes require a different approach.

[Nonsequitur]

9 hours ago, LadySmoks said:

overlay the multiplier onto the mesh in Blender. I use it a lot now.

Oh, that's what you were meaning. I've been doing that for some time to alline things. Import the multiplier from the Image menu - yea, that works well.

 

None of the pictures show. I get a 404 error.

 

With the Harley hair - part of the problem was I loaded it into Blender before doing anything and Decimated to a decent level. - about 1/2. Then brought it into MS and shortened it.  Probably why it only took 20 minutes - didn't have long waits to load, clean, save, etc.  and didn't bother to check any of the images. 

8 hours ago, LadySmoks said:

multiplier is everywhere I can't work with this mesh to "tweak" it.

I've run into a few like that. Usually due to the object being created for a higher end game or for a video animation sequence. 

Seems ever square millimeter of the UV is packed.  I was determined on a couple of them so pulled them apart. This is where the PATIENTS part of Guru Josh come into play.

In Blender select using the L key on the left (edit window) while the UV map is up on the right window. What is selected on the left is shown on the right in the UV map and only what you have highlighted. Group all those things together on the UV side - then move on to the next group.  It takes a while... Tiny things don't have any texture anyway so make a tiny ball with all those little things - one color - no texture - as small as a dot. Which I've seen some do.

 

1 hour ago, JoshQ said:

Transparent clothes require a different approach.

Ouch!  Read through that article and he makes it much more complicated than it needs to be. Just alter the Alpha channel of the area you want - on the multiplier, stencile - what have you. Gimp has an Alpha channel graph (Colors>Curves) where you select the area on a layer, select the channel from a drop down, and move the graph line to add transparency. you see the transparency level change in real-time. 

 

It takes a little "feel" to get it right as there is a small window - too much removed and it gets filled in a neutral opaque, too little removed and there is no effect (once you're back in TSRW).  Anything you want displayed with its own color and transparency levels under this Body transparency - requires that part of the mesh to be "off body". So, UV Map it in one of the side areas.  This way the transparency conflicts are avoided - you can have multiple layers of color (additive) with multiple layers of transparency - stacked (per-se) over a body mesh.  It functions as a multi-layered, multi-colored  surface with Alpha channels should work. The color is additive, the transparencies are additive - creating a composite with building opacity where multiple transparencies are stacked and their respective color values are merged (added) together only where different colors overlap.

 

Transparent clothes and glass objects are about the only thing I've worked with as far as Alphas go.

 

 

[Nonsequitur]

Another thing that might be fun to experiment with is creating a second Group with a hosury - if possible - or just with the existing Group... go to the mesh tab in TSRW and edit the materials. Change the Shader to glass or water or something other than it currently is.   Just a thought - haven't tried it.

[Guest]

Happy Thanksgiving!!! ?

 

9 hours ago, JoshQ said:

Transparent clothes require a different approach.

I read this a while ago. Its similar to what Non-Sequitur was saying about using the alpha channel to make things see through. I was going to make an open version of the EA chemise as sheer. It doesn't seem to work with the doubled lower mesh area.

 

7 hours ago, Non-sequitur said:

Oh, that's what you were meaning. I've been doing that for some time to alline things. Import the multiplier from the Image menu - yea, that works well.

Well, that's what I think Josh was referring to? I still export the mesh UV layout and use GIMP as layers to align the multiplier to the UV first, then use the overlay in Blender to see it on the mesh. Sometimes, I will adjust the UV map to align with the multiplier. It depends on what I feel is better to do at the time. But seeing if the seams align and especially where the torso (top) part of the UV ends and has to mate up to the bottom which is rotated 90 degrees has been a great tool to avoid back and forth between GIMP and game.

 

7 hours ago, Non-sequitur said:

With the Harley hair - part of the problem was I loaded it into Blender before doing anything and Decimated to a decent level. - about 1/2.

I'm not sure how decimating hair will work out, especially if you use a decimated LOD 0 and 1 just to cut down file size? Leah cut LOD 2 (which in hair world is like our LOD 3) by about half, and we all know how bad a LOD 3 can look.

 

7 hours ago, Non-sequitur said:

I've run into a few like that. Usually due to the object being created for a higher end game or for a video animation sequence. 

That outfit says its for S3 and the webpage showed some people tested it, but it just doesn't look good in MY game. Yes, its a very large clothes file. LOD 1-0 is 895 kb! I don't know why you get an error 404? But it has a bunch of individual 3d studs and all kinds of detail. 14,500 faces!

I'm not so determined to take this mesh apart, but am determined to piece together my own. Even splitting this into a top and a bottom isn't worth the effort. 

7 hours ago, Non-sequitur said:

Another thing that might be fun to experiment with is creating a second Group with a hosury - if possible

I know you can make multiple textures and color masks for the same mesh in TSRW, but don't think you can split the mesh materials. LOD 1 will be the same for all texture variations. At least, that's my understanding, and why I made 2 versions of the Lolita Maid outfit... just because the normals on the bow would be different.

[Nonsequitur]

I guess you can't add a Group to clothing - never tried until a few minutes ago. And you can't change or add a Shader either - so much for that idea.

Anyway - my view on how and why of the mesh versus Graphic layers...

 

 

What do you think?

[Guest]

I guess this didn't post when I thought I posted it? Just found it sitting in the "waiting" thing...

[Guest]

Well, I guess what you're showing is basically what has to be done to make open bottom dresses so their texture doesn't show on the legs? But, you're adding one more sheer layer??? The problem I had when trying to make the sheer chemise is that even moving the inner layer of the bottom, the mesh just being there caused issues... so I scrapped that idea for now. But, who knows... just like I hadn't messed with shortening the Harley hair in a long time and went back to and had some success, maybe down the road I'll learn something and say, "That might work on that sheer chemise!" )))

 

But, I also decided that I really really really want to make that top. And, its looking pretty good so far!

 

This is actually still 2 separate meshes, but 2.8 lets you edit them together... more or less. ))) So, I can see how each affects the other. The UV layout is temporary,until I have all the parts laid out and trimmed down, resized and then I'll fit them on the UV map. But, there's a lot more I plan to do with 3d parts on this. 

[Nonsequitur]

How did you find the camera in my portraits eye?  lol

 

For some reason - when the UV's are stacked, normal additive opacity and color doesn't seem to work well. I'm still experimenting. However, that's the way it should work.

 

Do you think PG is causing your NPC's to vanish?

Or, is one of your mods - or both?

[Nonsequitur]

I used Blenders UV Aline on that belt to straighten and square to axis.  It worked somewhat. got it square and all without problem fairly quickly.  The texture shows up - mostly - correct but, the pattern is slightly distorted. I've got a few tricks left to correct it but have a feeling I'll need to remake the belt - this time UV Map it before changing its shape.  and do it again only if I alter the number of vertices or faces.  Hey, it works and rarely shows a glitch - even taking something flat and bending it into a circle and twisting it.

 

[Nonsequitur]

On 11/27/2019 at 2:40 PM, LadySmoks said:

Cylinder segments edges. 

Each hair strand-group is made of a cylinder. These cylinders are made up of segments - in this case horizontal face edges are glitching.  

 

Sharps from scaling... or some other face edge problem?

[Nonsequitur]

12 hours ago, LadySmoks said:

basically what has to be done to make open bottom dresses so their texture doesn't show on the legs?

Yep, If you don't want one mesh texture to effect the other (body versus clothing) you can't have their UV's overlapping unless texture is perfectly alined.  When you have UV's stacked - changing the opacity of a body overlay texture has a tendency to bleed the texture from the outer texture onto the body. If the texture over the legs (like stockings) is opaque - no problem - you will still have a problem if texture is not lined up correctly with the UV.  You're throwing a can of paint at a Lamp ( in this case the clothing mesh). Whatever missed the lamp - hits the wall - (in this case the body mesh). If the opacity of the image below the clothing is reduced it allows that percentage of the clothing image to be painted onto the body (below or through that transparency). That's the problem.

[Guest]

Yes, the only way to have 2 mesh groups that I know of in TSRW for clothing is to pick a clothes mesh that already uses two groups. I actually know what you mean about adding a group to an object, as I stumbled across being able to do that. )

 

Are you trying to, for example, have sheer pantyhose over top of less sheer panties??? IF that's it, first thing is to change the overlay priority of the panties. I have garter suspenders as accessory and panties. Both use stockings as the base package, so both have the same overlay priority and which is on top depends on which you add to your sim last... unless you make the panties lower priority, or the suspenders (in your case the pantyhose) a higher priority.

 

I've never really done sheer over sheer, but can understand the color wash.

 

I've never had problems with patterns on belts. Things like that, I always have either vertical or horizontal, so the pattern is always squared up. Of course, depending on the pattern, it may not look right if the UV is vertical for a horizontal clothes item.

 

No, I know PG isn't the cause of NPCs disappearing. It may be a KW glitch. It may be something else? But, it was happening before PG.

 

Well, day 2 of making MY Harley top. I might make a rough and put in game to see how it looks before going too much further.

[Guest]

Its going slow, but well. Must have missed a couple of UV vertices that got welded. I had spider web on the arms/ torso part and had to redo it. I made the studs out of nipples! ? Its still 2 pieces for now... easier to work with. I still need to trim the torso, but this is one of my usual "not really planned out" meshing jobs! The overall is planned to look like pictures of various versions of the outfit, but I'm taking one detail at a time and hitting save as a new mesh. I guess I have about 20 meshes (parts) in 2 mesh progress files, so far. Next, the collar, and I actually have a plan for matching it to the torso better than I've done in the past. If this works, I may finally finish the long coat, since its the collar that's been buggering me. Not sure how the poly count will end, though. Each stud has 8 faces and there are 22 of them! Haven't even started on 3d straps and buckles!!!

 

[Nonsequitur]

Wheeuuw!  I was hoping NOT to dive back into PG to fix something major.

 

Not sure what you mean by setting the overlay priorities.

I can create the same effect by using what I described above. In effect, arranging priorities. If there is another way - it would be good to know.

 

Still - prioritizing or not - if you stack UV components over the body mesh... you are throwing a can of paint at the lamp. You just might get some paint on the wall too.  So... I try to put my "lamps" away from the "walls" when I throw my paint. 

4 hours ago, LadySmoks said:

Are you trying to, for example, have sheer pantyhose over top of less sheer panties???

The amount of transparency - of each - doesn't matter. Any combination. Just making it display more like it does in real life. Skin, then sheer hose, then shear garment, so the various layers of Skin and "sheer fabric" with their respective colors shows in an additive way. As opacity of an overlay increases, that image gains more dominance. Seperate locations offers separate control of texture, color and opacity. However, if you want something transparent where Skin shows through -  have that UV stacked over the body mesh. 

 

Wherever the UV component is placed on the Map - adding transparency on the image over that component allows whatever is below that image to show through. Since a DDS is Alpha - there is nothing there when these are off-body. You're dealing with an uncontrollable - the bodies Skin overlay. All other area are blank. So, the same rules apply to stacked UV components that are not over the body mesh.  But, that lamp is away from the "wall". 

 

If you have stacked mesh components - then separating their respective UV components allows control of individual components Texture, opacity, and color, whereas if UV components are stacked, they share the same image space.  One size fits all.

 

So, to share image space - or not... that is the question. 

 

 

[Nonsequitur]

As I hit the "save" for the post above - you posted the Harley top.  Very nice - looks clean.

 

If you're having a lot of components and starting to think poly count... I think I would have went with a low section count Geosphere and cut it in half, having about 8-16 faces each for the studs. Gives that pointy top bolt head look and keeps the count low.  Or a slightly higher count Sphere for a rounded top. It's small on the body so minimal detail, probably solid color with gradient shading depending on how you scale the UV stacked parts. But wouldn't show any better scaled up. I'd make as low a count as possible and keep shape you want, stack all UV's, and shrink to a pin-head on the Map. Let the normals Map do its thing. 

 

So, puffy sleeves and a sheer top above the bodice? Then some beefy leather and studs. I noticed the sleeves blend to the body mesh at the shoulders - that's why I think you intend to have that area sheer. It will be nice.

 

I seen the UV layout you have - do you intend to move the bra part up over the remaining body? It's a solid so just needs to have the image alined precisely and throw a little depth/contour shadow across the breasts if the top is sheer. 

[Guest]

3 hours ago, Non-sequitur said:

Wheeuuw!  I was hoping NOT to dive back into PG to fix something major.

I think it may be a KW glitch. Certain NPCs are "unstable" if you re-purpose them. Say, a dancer or prostitute you hire for your brothel. They just disappear. The brothel will continue to show them as employed and being paid, but you get an instantiation error message constantly. Some times, you can just set their pay to $0, save and restart, but other times you end up having to close the brothel and start a new one. Maids and butlers are the only NPCs that seem to be 100% safe to steal to put into other roles.

 

3 hours ago, Non-sequitur said:

Not sure what you mean by setting the overlay priorities.

All CASParts layer. The higher the priority number, the higher it layers over everything else. I forget exact without checking, but bottoms may be a 6 and tops a 7, so if the top is one that hangs over the skirt, you see the top texture on the top, not the skirt texture on the top. Stockings and pantyhose are 4? So... (numbers may be off but...) skin texture is 1, so everything can go over it, like make up 2 covers the skin texture. Maybe tattoos are 3? Not sure without looking. Anyway, what I've done in my game is to set things like stockings to 4 and the stocking suspenders to 5, so the suspender straps show over the stockings. Same with panties being set to 4 so they are under the suspender belt. Since stockings and panties don't overlap, I set them the same priority. But, if you're going to have pantyhose over panties, the pantyhose have to have a higher priority number. Now for visual aids! I used contrasting colors to show the layers better... And after thinking about it, probably should have used sheer panties instead of lace, but Origin clogs my CAS with garbage if I start the game while online, and I just shut it down to clear all their CC thumbs for stuff I'll never want!

ANYWAY.... these are 3 separate items. I use Master Controller set to multiple accessories per location, but stockings and suspenders can be made one. Also, the panties are listed as left garter to work with KW animations.

If everything has the same priority, whatever item you add last will show over the rest.

Only way I know to set overlay priority is to open the package in s3pe and access the CASP...

I've never done sheer over sheer as one item.

These are the suspenders I made in CAS Texturing Tool. I used it a long time ago so not to have all the unnecessary stuff TSRW generates for a simple overlay.

 

2 hours ago, Non-sequitur said:

If you're having a lot of components and starting to think poly count...

I'm at 3700 or so faces and a 205 kb file size so far, after adding a rough collar. Not too bad yet, but there will be more added... belts and hoop buckles... The UV layout is still just a rough mock up. I left things just so they would be easier to grab for now, since its usually easier to highlight the UV to adjust the mesh than to work around inside the mesh. The UV hangs into the bottom parts mask space. I'll deal with final UV mapping as the last thing.

 

The studs are already 8 faces. Less and it may not look right. Besides, as I said, I made them from the top nipple area! ))) Its 8 faces. I stacked them and shrank them, but must have done something to flip the UV on 2 of them, and another part of the mesh. 2 studs were just black and the mesh part had no texture in the test package. I'll sort it out eventually.

2 hours ago, Non-sequitur said:

So, puffy sleeves and a sheer top above the bodice? Then some beefy leather and studs. I noticed the sleeves blend to the body mesh at the shoulders

No sheer... I'll leave the peek-a-boo tops to you! ))) I'm trying to recreate the comic photos (more or less). A lot of cleavage and maybe the top of the breasts "heaving" out of the top! )

 

The way the sleeves blend into the body is temporary for this phase of the top. There are belt straps that go over the shoulders and to the choker and across the back and linked by round hoops. The straps going over the shoulder areas will be more 3d, which is where I plannish to attach the collar and separate the clothes from skin.

 

Its a 4 color mask. I did a mock up to check the mesh in TSRW.... Very simple, no shading or anything else at this point, and the collar is just sitting there. Sleeves need to be puffier too!

 

[Nonsequitur]

Looking good so far!

 

Those studs are right on the mark.

 

Thanks for the info on changing priorities. I never knew that existed until you told me. 

I'll need to look into that a little closer - but at first glance, it looks like it changes the entire objects overlay priority.

I'm changing the individual UV/mesh component priorities for a more realistic blending of opacities and color between components. Not between different objects. Very good to know about global object overlay priorities though. Thank you!

 

Had to remake the Belt for the shear pantyhose.

Got the pattern straight on it. Looks good.

Found that the belting-band on the pantyhoses pattern was straight but I didn't line up the edges perfect so stripes don't match at seams. Minor tweak. 

 

 

That quality control inspector (#7) again... they never get the banding right in the real world either!

[Guest]

Thanks! Still A LOT of work to do just with the mesh, then the part I suck at... multipliers... unless I can find something to work with, I don't do that great.

 

I've never tried to make a single anything with multiple sheer layers as you're doing. Just balancing 1 layer between sheer enough and washed out textures and colors is enough for me. )

 

I've gone through the seam/ multiplier horizontal alignment plenty of times on that right side. ) I've even fixed multipliers others did on some CC I liked because it annoyed me!

 

And vertical stripes can be a pain too... or checks... patterns in general!

 

But, looks like those pantyhose are coming along nicely. )

[Guest]

Got a chance to spend some time on what I call, Harley's "Stop The Madness" top... I haven't put together another test mesh and checked it in TSRW yet, but I flipped the normals on the 2 studs and part of the bottom belt that looked like they were inside, stretched the torso to better align with the skirt, puffed up the shoulders, tightened the waist a little, did some angle touch ups on the bottom belt, added the inner for the 2 bottom sections... AND... started on the various belts (straps/ harness looking parts), the two going over the shoulders first. After the harness is done, I can attach the collar properly. ))) Slow, but seems to be getting there.

I still haven't done the bottom of the choker or around the top of the corset, but will get to them eventually. ))) For now, more harness straps, and then the hoops! That should be fun? ?

 

Already have thoughts about another Harley top!!! OOOOOOOOOO............ SHINEY!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Nonsequitur]

Hey, Lady... thanks.

 

Awhile back, talking about these graphic layers and how they affect each other stacked and not stacked UV's on a mesh, you mentioned Garters. Did I read that right? You referred to painting the garter on. If doing a sock or garter accessory - I understand that. There is no mesh so there's no choice - it must be that way. I try never to paint on the body. It tends to look painted. So, when I include a garter - it's usually an actual mesh place at the side area so there's no interference with the Body Skin. Only if I want Skin to show through an object will I place the UV (1) over the body.  Damned DDS Alpha's off-body showing "nothing" or blank when transparent (that's what's below the alpha when off-body) rather than the material below the mesh where it's placed on the body. 

 

That's what I was trying to do when I started venting... Make an accessory garter and stocking where there is a mesh. I wanted an accessory garter that had frill and fru-fru. I can only do that with a mesh.  And, unlike Object mesh Groups - you cannot add a mesh group to these accessories.  Bummer!  Occasionally, I take another look at the accessories section to see if my garter can be placed into another accessory category with a mesh - and work... "SQUIRREL !!!"

 

 

[Nonsequitur]

I like it!

 

Those studded bands look much better now. I thought you were just having a little roll-tuck piping above that lower studded band.

How do you like to make your buckles? Just a box or do you actually create it vertice by vertice and deal with the Polycount overhead?  I guess it would depend on how many  if you make them realistic in 3D, vertice by vertice - face by face.

[Guest]

3 hours ago, Non-sequitur said:

you mentioned Garters

Hey! The only thing I said about garters is about renaming panties as left garter, so the come off with KW animations. Once upon a time, I half heartedly tried to make a miniskirt as an accessory so it would stay on during KW woohoo, but it didn't go easy and it wasn't important enough to continue working on it.

 

I would imaging you need to actually make a 3d garter as clothing first, say bottom briefs, so your garter mesh picks up the bones and morphs from its placement on the leg. What I usually do is the take that area of the (in this case, leg), highlight it, hit duplicate mesh, resize 1 click x and y, and move the UV off the leg. Now, that mesh thinks its the leg section and should move perfectly with it... then build your project around it. Eventually, delete the lower body vertices, leaving only your garter... then, just go into the category and say its an accessory, left or right garter, but KW will remove it during woohoo if its left. You can call it a sock if you want.

 

Now, I have never really tried any of that stuff, but it seems that might be a way to do it? It is similar to how I made the studs and many parts for the Harley top, especially the harness straps I'm working on now.

 

 

Also, there are a few things out there that are 3d accessories. You might reverse engineer one?